Onikai

At Onikai, a good place to start is with the seasonal vegetables. Simmered seasonal vegetables are priced from 550 yen. One diner’s account of a set course describes potatoes, onions and Kujo green onions, each paired with a different accompaniment: Caesar dressing with the potatoes, mascarpone and bacon with the onions, and duck with sansho oil alongside the green onions. The vegetables take centre stage, while the pairings give each dish its own character.

Yuba and vegetable dishes are another appealing option. One diner described yuba and Manganji pepper fried in dashi broth, while an account of a different course mentions yuba and farm vegetables prepared in the same style and served with grated green pepper. You can pick individual dishes that catch your eye or choose a course that lets you sample vegetables and fish in smaller portions.

Seasonal rice cooked with other ingredients is a possible way to finish. In one account of a course, the diner enjoyed an earthenware-pot rice dish with conger eel and aromatic garnishes first as it was, then as dashi-chazuke, with broth poured over the rice. The crispy rice at the bottom of the pot also made an impression. Individual portions of seasonal rice start at 1,100 yen, making it a dish to consider alongside the vegetables or as a leisurely end to a course meal.

There are around 10 kinds of sake on offer at any given time, from 550 yen. Draft beer, fruit liqueurs and shochu highballs made with fresh-squeezed juice are also available, giving you options to pair with a meal built around several vegetable dishes.

Seating includes counter seats and sunken kotatsu tables. Some diners have mentioned eating while watching the open kitchen. Dinner reservations are accepted, and diners have reported booking ahead, so reserving a seat in advance is an option once your plans are set.